The second try seemed almost like an inevitability. The place was less than 20 minutes away by Shinkansen anyway.
We strategized and planned the night before. The fact that Kenrokuen was so close (by the city loop bus) and yet we could not reach it was almost frustrating.
There was sun somehow by the time we reached the entrance to the gardens. We missed the snow blanket on the trees, but it is true: Kenrokuen is beautiful no matter what the weather.
There is a tea house near the pond at one end of the gardens. You must order from one building, and the ladies who keep the tea house will direct you to the adjoining one.
At least one of you must order the zenzai. I have had a few in my travels to Japan, and this was one of the best. The ladies will give you a small amount of shio-kombu, eat the delicate dumplings with it. Glance outside the window at the branches of a tree that extends over the water. Take another bite.
The room smells a bit of kerosene, because of the old-fashioned space heater. It’s warm, and on a cold enough day, you don’t want to leave.
If you’re lucky, you meet the big old crow that struts on the ground and tries to enter the eating-room. One of the ladies tutted at him, and he almost appeared to shrug.
There was also a castle, adjacent to the gardens. It’s still being restored and renovated, and entrance was free, but we didn’t linger. We got back on the bus toward the Samurai district, where we visited the more famous samurai house, but also a newer addition to the list of restored and converted houses.
Both were beautiful. Kanazawa begs more exploration. Maybe one day I will have the good fortune to return.
The Visitor, Revisited 
Leave a comment